The Great White Way of Jasper Avenue, [1930s to 2004], by Nicholas Spillios
Date: 1930s to 2004
When you usually think of "The Great White Way", you tend to think of Broadway in New York. But think again. Jasper Avenue in the 30's and 40's was the Great White Way of Edmonton. No doubt about it.
In those days, Jasper Avenue was promoted as the longest street in the world. I don't know whether it was quite true but Edmontonians seemed to believe it. I know that I did. Anyway, Edmontonians are noted for bragging about their city. And why not?
The street was a grand street where the action seemed to take place somewhere between 109 and 97 Street, but centering on 101 Street, or at least for me it did. So close your eyes and let me take you for a walk down the Jasper Avenue of the 30's and 40's - to the theatre, hotel and cafe scene, taking in the upscale Macdonald Hotel, the unpretentious Corona Hotel, the American Dairy Lunch and Dreamland Theatre, as well as the Empire Theatre where the top dramas and performers appeared. It was an exciting and vibrant scene which some of us didn't recognize as such at the time.
We always took pride in the fact that our streets were numbered, in contrast to other comparable cities of the day. Numbered streets still cross the avenue. Because our house was situated on 107 Street, just off Jasper Avenue, it took no more than a twenty-minute walk along Jasper to reach the hub of the centre on 101 Street. As I turned off our street on to the avenue, the first imposing building I would pass was the Corona Hotel, just after the Edmonton Table Supply. It was here that high school graduation dances were held, including my own - Vic High in the late 40's. It was not imposing by today's standards, but it had enough class to compete with the Macdonald Hotel as a venue for these events. Besides, it was also reasonably priced, fitting in well with students' limited finances.
As I approached 104 Street, the only centre of activity of note was the Pig N' Whistle restaurant which was located on the north side of Jasper between 104 and 105 Street and could be spotted by its electric sign outlining what else - a pig. On the next block was Thompson and Dynes (Mother and her friends often shopped there for style), later replaced by Holt Renfrew. The Palace of Sweets for magazines and candies was on the south corner of 104 Street. On that block were two well-established and reputable art stores - Morgan's Framing and Burlington's Art Shop. For books, we always visited Nye's and were rarely disappointed. Moving east, St. Mary's High School, just off the avenue on 103 Street, was the only public school located downtown. It held a certain emotional appeal for my family as my parents held their wedding reception in the gym of that school.
Finally, we enter the theatre district. I recall the Empire Theatre, just off Jasper where many a traveling company would hold their shows. Alas, Edmonton was not a theatre town and many companies faced empty houses in that building. I saw Zasu Pitts there and also scaled down versions of "Naughty Marietta" and "Kiss and Tell" during the war. There was also Gershwin's "American In Paris" ballet, sponsored by a local impresario by the name of Lieberman. It too languished, unfortunately.
On the block between 102 and 103 streets were several cafes and restaurants, including "The Silk Hat" (yes, the same cafe which still stands!) and "The Poodle Dog" which later became " Strand Coffee Shop". And finally, just a few doors down was the imposing and historical Strand Theatre which to the end kept its facade and dignity almost intact as a combination vaudeville/movie venue. In the late 30's and 40's, many a traveling vaudeville show appeared on the stage of the Strand including "The Dumbells".
The entrance to the inside of the majestic Strand stretched from the street past the box office through giant doors. Standing on guard at the door was Mr. Wilson in full regalia taking tickets. Mr. Wilson, I believe, was the only doorman in Edmonton who took his job seriously. He always wore a uniform, which set him off from all other doormen at theatres. I thought that he was a most important person, standing there guarding the door from day to day and taking tickets. My family knew him and his family personally, as his daughter, Joyce, was a school chum of mine - I still keep in touch with her to this very day. They lived upstairs from the theatre, which was approached by a side entrance.
The fare at the Strand appealed to the young at heart like me. On the weekends were the westerns - we caught many a Gene Autry and Roy Rogers programmer there. You could always depend on the Strand for an entertaining double bill including such series as the Jones Family, Charlie Chan, and Mr. Moto. I tried not to miss Laurel and Hardy - their comedies were sidesplitting for us young folk, often appearing on the top half of a bill.
Before we continue our stroll to other theatres and establishments, let me tell you about a traumatic event which occurred to me and which I thought would totally disrupt my life. In the early 40's, the theatres increased the price of admission for children from 10 to 12 cents! What a calamity! On an allowance of 15 cents per week, how was I to cope? But I did.
Next to the Strand was the American Dairy Lunch, the only cafeteria in town, catering to Edmontonians interested in simple and nutritious fare. On the corner was a ladies hat shop, which seemed to have a regular clientele at a time when ladies prided themselves on changes of hats by the hour, or so it seemed to us youngsters. Across the street was the Hudson's Bay store extending across the whole block. I am happy to report that the building still stands there but the store has been vacated. It was the major department store in Edmonton. One found absolutely anything they wanted to buy there, if one searched long enough. Across the street was Johnstone Walker's, not exactly in the same league as the Bay. Still, their merchandise gave the Bay a formidable competitor. I remember distinctly that its floors creaked as one moved through the multi-level store. I would visit the barber on the third floor for a cut on Saturdays.
As we move closer to 101 Street we pass the Empress Theatre, a smaller theatre but most importantly the home of the Saturday morning shows. Here, serials such as "Dick Tracy" and "Flash Gordon" would precede a double bill, which satisfied our young appetites for adventure and thrills. I still remember the squeals from all of us as Tracy was caught in a trap at the end of an episode - we couldn't wait until the following week to find out how he escaped. On the same block was the dependable "Nut House" for popcorn and nuts - no theatre as yet operated concession stands. My friend, Chris Varvis, and I always made a point of picking up a bag of popcorn there on the way to a movie.
On 101 street and Jasper Avenue, we would pass by the Selkirk Hotel and then enter the most important restaurant in town - the Johnson's Café right on the corner at the crossroads of Edmonton. Con Johnson prided himself with the operation of an upscale establishment. You often heard the saying, "Meet me at Johnson's", as the lobby of the cafe displayed the most extensive lobby of any restaurant in Edmonton, almost inviting you to enter. Many of the Edmonton Journal's reporters could be overheard discussing a scoop there over lunch. In those days, some cafes displayed stills of current movies running downtown and gave passes to the owners. Since the Johnson's were friends of ours, Mrs. Johnson would sometimes invite me for a meal after school and take me to the Empress. I thought that I was the luckiest guy in town - just think, I was seeing a free movie! I couldn't wait to tell the guys in school the next day!
The Rialto was just half a block off Jasper going north, just past today's location of the Bank of Commerce. W. C. Fields and Deanna Durbin films played here in the early 40's. Mother would often attend a matinee on Tuesday because on this day ladies would receive a free piece of English bone China. Wow! The price of tickets for adults had risen to 27 cents during the war years. Next door to the Bank was the Barootes Tea Room where you would find delicious chocolates and other goodies. Alas, the shop closed in 1942. Next-door was Merrick Drugs, another disappearing landmark. Further down was Dittrich Men's store on which men depended for their spiffy garments for special events such as weddings.
Crossing the street, we would pass the Grill Cafe. It is about here that the Johnson's Cafe relocated later, sadly losing their prime location and glamour. A few doors down was the Capitol Theatre, the major film house in this period. First run films were shown here starring the big stars of the day including, Errol Flynn, Bette Davis and Judy Garland. I remember catching "Gone With The Wind " there in 1939 - what an exciting treat that was! There was always competition between the Rialto and the Capitol but both seemed to survive. At the end of the block was the Shasta Cafe, which was located exactly where the Telus Tower complex stands today.
Across the street was the venerable and long standing "Mike's News Stand" where one could pick up papers from around the world but best of all the comics - "Superman" and "The Batman" were my favourites. If only I had kept my copies and not traded them for warplane cards, which I eventually lost or gave away, I would be a millionaire today. Wilson's Stationary, which occupied a choice location on the block, was a most popular spot on the first day of school in September.
Crossing to the south side of the avenue, I would be facing the Macdonald Hotel, considered Edmonton's major hotel. It stood out as it still does overlooking the North Saskatchewan River - a view that no other city can surpass. It was probably the city's tallest hotel. It hasn't lost its charm. Walking further down to the end of the block, we pass the offices of the Edmonton Bulletin, the Journal's lone competition. I would often peer in the windows to watch reporters at work on a story.
Walking as far east as 97 Street, the Dreamland Theatre lay on the south side of the street (the location of the Shaw Conference Centre today) with another theatre, the Gem, across the street. Tickets were always cheaper at these theatres, although some of us rarely ventured this far down Jasper.
Downtown Edmonton took on an exciting aura on New Year's Eve, which was indescribable. I always looked forward in attending a movie at the Rialto or Capitol at that time for very specific reasons. Firstly, first-run films would be shown - films which would not be seen for at least several weeks and secondly, there were stupendous prizes to be given away including furniture and passes. I remember attending a showing of "The Jolson Story" at the Rialto with my friend, John Agrios (Judge).
You can now open your eyes. Take a good look at the Great White Way today. If it has changed, so have all of us. But there are rumblings from time to time of returning the sweep of the street, as City Council talks about restoring the street to its former glory. I am waiting. But for how long, I don't know. I do know that the Great White Way will return, if not to its original state, then maybe to something close.